SANYIPACE S840DSRTMS68 Plumbing Camera Review || True Record
Hi everybody, welcome back to Sam’s Doing Stuff. Today, we’re going to find out what’s wrong with this drain using a sewer camera from Sanyipace.
Here’s the unit, pretty much as it comes in the box. It lies on its side like this. The camera connects here, and when you open the plastic case, you’ll see the screen on top and the components and controls underneath.
It doesn’t come fully charged, so the first thing you should do is remove this unit from the box, disconnect any cables if needed, and plug it in to charge. I’ve already done that. You have a video cable coming out of the end, power to the screen, and this controller that sends the plumbing camera feed to the display.
Here’s the S840DSRTMS68 plumbing camera itself. It’s nicely made and feels heavy-duty, as it needs to be for sewer work. It attaches to the end of the push cable. The kit also includes different protective sleeves—one for wider pipes and one for narrower ones—to help the plumbing camera move smoothly and protect it.
Features Overview

This system has a 10.1-inch HD IPS screen with 1080p recording, real-time video and audio, snapshots, and 5× digital zoom. The plumbing camera has 12 adjustable LEDs that illuminate the pipe, giving a bright and wide-angle view even in dark or dirty environments. It’s also self-levelling, keeping the image upright at all times.
The unit tracks the amount of cable fed into the pipe—measured in feet or meters—which is important for locating damaged sections. The push cable is 7 mm, rigid and thick, giving it a strong push force to navigate long pipelines.
The plumbing camera is waterproof and dustproof, designed for muddy, harsh conditions. The system uses a long-lasting 4500 mAh battery and includes a 32 GB memory card, expandable up to 128 GB. It also has a built-in microphone and speaker to capture voice notes during inspections.
Beginning the Inspection
I selected the protector with wheels since this is a large pipe—maybe three and a half to four inches in diameter. I tightened the set screws with the included screwdriver, powered on the unit, and confirmed the pipeline camera was level by rotating it.
To reset the distance counter, open the menu and hit the “Clear” button. Once the LEDs were on, I started recording and fed the camera down the drain.

Almost immediately, spiderwebs appeared on the lens. Then, the wheel protector suddenly came off—something in the pipe caught it—and now it’s stuck inside the drain. That’s obviously a bigger problem.
Attempting Retrieval
I switched to the other protector and tried again. Unfortunately, the piece remained stuck. I fashioned a hook on a cable and tried using the pipe camera to guide it, but that didn’t work either.
I had to call a plumber. They said there were no guarantees. About the only thing they could try was flushing it down to the main line—costing about $1,000 with no guarantee it wouldn’t catch again. Their other suggestion was excavation: digging, cutting the pipe, pushing the part out, and repairing everything afterwards.
As a last-ditch effort, I attached a strong magnet to a fish tape. I sent it down the pipe, hoping to grab the lost piece. It took some manoeuvring, but eventually I felt resistance, checked the camera, and realised I had hooked something. After carefully pulling and working it past a bend, I finally retrieved it.
I did it. I actually did it—and I’m incredibly relieved.
⭐ Official Sanyipace Explanation
After sharing this experience, Sanyipace responded with additional clarification about how the wheel guards are intended to work. Their explanation helps users choose the correct setup for different pipe sizes:
The large wheel guard, combined with the camera, has a total diameter of about 3.9 inches (≈99 mm). It is designed specifically for pipes larger than 8 inches (≈203 mm). In larger pipelines, the big wheel guard helps the sewer inspection camera pass smoothly through bends and keeps the lens protected.
In smaller pipes, like the 4-inch (≈100 mm) pipe shown in my video, both the large wheel guard and the smaller standard wheel guard (1.5 inches / ≈38 mm) can physically fit straight through. However, the large guard cannot turn properly around tight corners and may get stuck, which is exactly what happened in my case. For small pipes with bends, the smaller wheel guard is recommended to ensure smooth movement.
Sanyipace appreciated the detailed testing and mentioned that this is a good example of how selecting the correct wheel guard can make inspections easier and safer.
I replied to their comment and thanked them for the clarification because it helps viewers better understand why the issue occurred. This video can now serve as a demonstration not only of how the system works but also of what might happen if the wrong setup is used.
Continuing the Inspection
After retrieving the stuck part, I continued the inspection using the smaller protector. The pipe was slightly misaligned a couple of feet in, then transitioned from PVC (Schedule 40) to old clay terracotta. At each joint, roots were growing through—definitely causing ongoing issues. Now I know exactly where to dig outside to replace that damaged clay section.
Using the 512 Locator

Back in the workshop, here’s the 512 locator used to find the end of the drain camera cable. It comes in a sturdy case. You assemble it by sliding the two halves together and securing them with the included screws. After charging, you power it on, set it to the farthest setting, and scan until you get a signal. Switch to “near” to fine-tune the location. When the plumbing camera is on the ground, waving the wand over the area will pinpoint where to dig.
Final Thoughts
Functionally, the digital system works great: high-quality video, good lighting, accurate distance tracking, and the ability to record everything. But there is one major flaw: the plastic set screws used to secure the camera protectors.

They’re plastic, adjusted with a tiny screwdriver, and rely entirely on friction. The plumbing camera surface is smooth with no channel or keyway for the screws to lock into. In real pipes—full of cracks, roots, rough surfaces—things catch. And when they catch, those plastic screws simply aren’t strong enough. They should absolutely be stainless steel with a positive locking design.
As reviewers, we’re expected to give honest feedback, and this is mine. The electronic components are excellent, but the attachment mechanism for the protectors needs serious improvement.
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Video link: https://youtu.be/GMjmkghYrmw
Related reading: The 7 Best Sewer Cameras in 2025
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