gen 03, 2025

Sanyipace Plumbing Camera: Inspect Drains & Culverts Easily

by James Nyffeler

Hi, this is Sean. I'm in the shop today and I wanted to show you this new plumbing camera I got from Sanyipace.

I know many of you have mentioned how useful a drain inspection camera would be for the type of work I do. So I finally picked one up. Let me show you what this powerful tool can do and how it fits into my plumbing and inspection work.

Unboxing the Sanyipace Plumbing Camera

This plumbing camera comes with a nice padded carrying case. Inside, you’ll find all the accessories.

The unit features a 9" screen, which is large and easy to view. It also comes with an adjustable sunshade for outdoor use. The sewer camera system includes a rechargeable battery that powers the camera for hours after an indoor charge.

The camera head is self-leveling, equipped with built-in LED lights and a flexible spring that helps it maneuver through pipes with ease. This kind of versatility is crucial for plumbing work.

Using a Plumbing Camera for Well Inspection and Cleaning

Deep Cleaning the Well with Real-Time Monitoring

Initial Observations

Let’s get the camera rolling. The well pump just kicked on, and we saw a noticeable drop in the water level. We're now monitoring for water flowing in from the sides of the well. At around 45 feet, the camera picked up some debris blocking the view. The pump activated again, and I positioned the camera just above the water line so you can see how it pulls the water level down. I’m trying to follow it in real time. The water’s pretty murky, and I’ve started recording the footage. You can also see the casing is quite dirty in places.

There’s a lot of cloudy water and signs of corrosion or rust along the casing walls. When the pump turns on, the water level drops quickly—right now we’re at about 56 feet.

Assessing Water Quality

One key thing I needed to figure out was how deep the water sits. Initially, it was around 45 feet, and it drops when the pump runs, then rises again once it stops. That’s a critical reading for assessing the condition of the well. From this initial inspection, the water quality is clearly poor.

Based on what I’ve seen, I’ve decided to do a deep clean. Another thing I wanted to determine was the pump’s depth. Normally, you wouldn’t plunge the camera directly into well water, but since it’s already very dirty and due for cleaning, I decided to go ahead. I pushed the camera down until it hit resistance—possibly a torque arrester or the top of the pump. That gave me a rough estimate of the pump's depth, which seems to be around 110 feet.

To deep clean the well, I used pool shock containing 73% calcium hypochlorite. The plan was to dump it into the well and recirculate the water for at least an hour. After letting the system run for a while, I could see that the chlorine had loosened up a significant amount of buildup. I let a garden hose run out into the woods for several hours to flush the system, which helped clear up the water. Then, I ran the camera back down to inspect the casing again after the chlorine treatment. While the water still looked a bit rough, the casing itself appeared much cleaner. I continued flushing the system for another three hours, which helped significantly, though I didn’t run the camera again after the final rinse.

Inspecting Drainage Systems with a Plumbing Camera

Real-Time Results and Troubleshooting

Navigating the Drain

The counter looks a bit dark, but check this out—there’s some water being held in there. As I move forward, it looks like I’ve hit a Y-connection. Just upstream of that Y, I can see a small buildup of sediment. Hopefully, the water is flowing down the correct path. At around 3.5 feet, that sediment becomes noticeable. Again, looks like a bit of debris or buildup is sitting in that area, possibly held up by the shape of the pipe. There’s even a chance this could indicate a slight break or imperfection in the line.

I'm having trouble getting around this corner. The plumbing camera comes with a set of small bushings, so I’m going to try attaching one to help navigate the bend—though I’m not exactly sure where I left the screwdriver. Let’s try it anyway. Okay, with the bushing on, it successfully made it around that tight corner. There's another Y-connection just ahead—though now I’m starting to think I may be heading the wrong direction through the line.

Interpreting Sediment Build-Up

The pipe itself looks to be in excellent condition at this point. Pushing the camera is getting harder as I’m now at 96 feet. I think I’ve reached the end of the line, so I’m going to walk to the far side and block off the opening to check for light. Back on the other end, I did see the light flicker when I covered it, so I know the camera made it through. I’ll switch the LED back on and try to push just a little farther, but with nearly 100 feet of cable out, we may be at the limit. Flow seems clear beyond that point, and there’s no visible blockage—just that bit of sediment near the beginning, within the first few feet.

This is a great example of how you can use an inspection camera to generate additional income—by checking outdoor drainage systems for sediment buildup, flow issues, or even pipe damage like cracks and breaks.

Plumbing Camera for Culvert Inspection

Inspecting the Culvert Interior

There’s a manhole right beneath the ground here—that’s where I originally made the connection. It’s been a couple of months since I did that work, and I wanted to check on how it’s holding up. The only way to get a clear view of it is through the culvert, so I’m running my snake camera through to take a look. So far, it looks pretty solid. One quick tip: unlike round manhole covers, these rectangular ones can actually fall through the opening, so make sure not to drop it—or you’ll have to go in and fish it out.

I'm almost at the spot—just need to get over this little hump. The issue here is that this is a two-foot diameter pipe, and the sewer camera doesn’t push through easily in something that wide. It got stuck, so I ended up jumping into the drainage basin to help guide it through manually.

Now what you’re seeing here is the mortar I installed around the double-wall culvert pipe. I used hydraulic cement to seal it up, and it set really nicely. There’s barely any room to work in there, so my hands got all scraped up and I’m completely covered in dirt—but this is exactly what I came to check.

I just wanted to make sure the quick-setting cement is still intact. From what I can see, it’s holding up really well. I’m inside the manhole now, pulling the camera back slightly to get a better view. That gap is still sealed tight, and I feel great about how the whole thing is performing.

How to Make Money with a Plumbing Camera

If you're in the plumbing, irrigation, or property maintenance field, this tool can seriously boost your income.

Here are just a few services you can offer using a plumbing inspection camera:

Well inspections
Drainage system evaluations
Sewer line inspections
Video documentation for homeowners or property managers
Preventative cleaning and maintenance reports

Inspection of client's drains

This is actually the first time I’m using the drain camera on a paid job, so I’m pretty excited about that. Let’s go ahead and power it on and get everything set up. I’m planning to attach the 4-inch roller today. Still haven’t found the right screwdriver, but this one will do. It’s getting dark, so I’m turning on the LED light and starting the recording. Here’s our first pipe joint—just making sure it’s clearly visible.

At around 23.5 feet in, there’s a noticeable bulge in the pipe. Looks like it’s been damaged, which probably explains why the 4-inch roller couldn’t pass through. It’s Schedule 30 PVC, which I usually avoid using. You can also see some signs of water retention. The rest of the pipe looks decent, with a hard 90-degree turn. There’s another minor damaged area, but overall it still seems functional.

I wanted to inspect the short pipe sections, but those downspout adapters block access. They’re riveted on, which means you’d have to drill them out to inspect anything. That’s why I avoid using those types of adapters—you just can’t reach inside when needed.

There’s a lot of water in this area, and it stays wet. But the higher ground near the house is dry. I first suspected a break in the pipe that was letting water seep underground. You’ll notice rocks placed along the foundation—they hold and slow water. If the pipes are working fine, the next theory is that the gutters are overflowing.

I’ve talked to the homeowner about checking things during the rain. If the gutters are overflowing, water might be leaking into the rocks and slowly releasing into the ground, causing that constant wetness. We also cleaned out the drainage basin, so that should help move surface water more effectively.

I scoped the pipes and confirmed they’re not broken or disconnected. Now we’re waiting on the homeowner to see if the gutters are the issue. Even the best drainage system won’t help if water isn’t being properly collected and directed in the first place.

Conclusion

So that's what I think is going on. Let me talk some more about that plumbing camera. I've had this inspection camera for a little while now. And I've done a few different things with it. Hopefully, you have really seen the value in having a camera like this for checking out different types of pipes. I used it for my well and for a couple of drainage pipes. You can also use it for septic pipes and along those lines.

So far, this thing's been working really well for me, and I really like it. If I have inspired you to get an inspection camera of your own, and you see the value in owning one, I will put a link to where you can purchase this directly from the manufacturer in the description. I hope you all have enjoyed this video, where I talk about some new equipment that I just got. This camera has been working out pretty well. I think it's going to be a great addition to what I'm out here doing, so if you did enjoy it, make sure you hit the like button and I will see you on the next one.